TREND OF COLOURFUL BAUBLES

MELDING CLASSIC ELEGANCE WITH A FIERY SPIRIT, COLOURED DIAMONDS ARE IN PERFECT SYNCHRONY WITH THE FASHION INDUSTRY’S COLOUR FORECAST. EXPERTS WEIGH IN ON THE TREND OF COLOURFUL BAUBLES AND ITS PROMISE OF ETERNAL STYLE

    Canary yellow, champagne beige, indigo blue and candy red—welcome to the intriguing spectrum of coloured diamonds. While retaining all the characteristics that one has come to love in a diamond, coloured diamonds add a glamourous dimension casting a spell of their own. Santosh Srivastava, managing director, Gitanjali Jewels, states, “[Of course] it comes as no surprise that the diamond is the most popular gemstone of all time. But, unlike the past, today’s woman is very much into colours in diamonds; mainly emerald, pale yellow, blue and pink. Nature has created diamonds in shades of blue, green, yellow, orange and pink. These [natural coloured] diamonds are called ‘fancies’ and are extremely rare and highly treasured.”
    The more you learn about them, the less surprising it is that coloured diamonds are now in demand the world over. According to Manju Kothari, creative director, Entice, greater awareness about the existence of coloured diamonds has been one of the primary reasons for their popularity. “While diamonds were considered luxury, now coloured diamonds are true luxury, elevating the definition of luxury a notch higher,” she states. Another contributing factor is an intrinsic desire to stand out from the pack. “People have become more experimental and hence opt for coloured diamonds over plain diamond jewellery. Coloured diamonds are rare and more exotic,” explains Ishu Datwani, founder, Anmol Jewellers. 

A firework display
• Of the variety of colours available, the rarest is a red diamond. Kothari explains, “Black and champagne were a hit a few years ago. Now, yellow and pink are the hot favourites. Rarity plays a major role in the demand.”
    Mahesh Jagwani, jewellery expert and managing director, Mahesh Notandass Fine Jewellery, agrees with Kothari, as he explains, “Yes, rarity does play a role. The more intense or strong the colour appears, the more valuable the diamond. Colour intensity is the most important factor when purchasing a fancy coloured diamond.” According to him, some of the famous coloured diamonds include blue, red, green and yellow diamonds.
    Of course, with limited supplies come high prices. While diamonds are rare, coloured diamonds are rarer than them. Kothari shares, “Approximately 20 per cent of colourless diamonds are of gem quality and of that only one out of every 10,000 carats is naturally coloured. It is this rarity that accounts for their exclusivity and steep price.” In fact, within each shade, the intensity of colour affects its value. Jagwani explains, “A fancy yellow diamond will fetch a higher price than a light-yellow one. The more intense the colour, the more expensive the diamond is...” 

Designs on you
• A clear sign of the increase in demand is the use of coloured diamonds in assorted collections by jewellers. According to Datwani, some of the common requests include chandelier earrings and cocktail jewellery in combinations of yellow and white diamonds. “Also, the central stone of a solitaire ring can be a fancy pink or yellow diamond,” he says.
    In the ‘Colours of Life’ collection designed by Biren Vaidya, managing director at Rose Group of Companies, there is a wide selection of natural intense yellow, blue and pink diamonds. He says, “Every woman possesses diamond jewellery in her ensemble, and it forms the staple [element] of her jewellery collection. But what’s beyond white diamond jewellery? We have seen that patrons are looking for something new, and are especially looking for something that adds colour to their collection; hence, the demand for coloured gemstones including intense diamonds.” When it comes to the selection of stones and settings, Datwani advises, “Firstly, it should be a natural fancy coloured diamond and not a treated one. Jewellery with yellow diamonds should preferably be set in yellow gold or if it’s set in white gold, then at least the part with yellow diamonds should be in yellow gold to enhance the colour of the diamond.” Like Kothari points out, “As coloured diamonds are the rarest, they need to be the focal point of the jewellery piece and thus, a prominent size with due emphasis given in terms of design and placement is the most common request.” 

Final decision
• Given its viability as an investment option, the colour and size of your diamond depends on how you plan to use it. Jagwani refers to industry research indicating for every few 1,00,000 diamonds that are mined, only one possesses enough natural colour to be referred to as a fancy coloured diamond. He says, “In recent years, fancy coloured diamonds, especially the larger and rarer ones, have emerged as a unique and attractive investment opportunity, with prices showing sturdy appreciation and proving to be resilient to adverse economic conditions. [Moreover] coloured diamonds don’t fade with time!” However, the purchase of jewellery is quite often driven by emotion and a desire to own something truly precious, which is why Kothari’s rationale will resonate with many people. She says, “The benefits of buying a coloured diamond are more emotional, as one gets to own a part of the rarest of the rare from what Mother Nature has to offer!”

Engagement Rings SAY IT WITH…

Engagement Rings

SAY IT WITH…

IT’S USUALLY AN EXCITING AND MEMORABLE MOMENT WHEN A COUPLE GETS ENGAGED. BUT WHAT CAN MAKE IT EXTRA-SPECIAL IS THAT ZING YOU ADD WITH YOUR ENGAGEMENT RING. TO DO THAT, YOU MUST GO THROUGH A SERIES OF STEPS, SOMETIMES STRENUOUS, TO MAKE SURE THE RING IS JUST RIGHT

DIVINE SOLITAIRES

    As high profile celebrity engagement rings are closely watched by people and the media alike, jewellers too, are keeping up with trends. Here are a few pointers to keep in mind: 

Not going by the looks

• Jewellery designer, Farah Khan Ali says, “It’s the ring that gets every woman excited, especially because it is a commitment ring. While buying an engagement ring, it’s important to know your woman. Buy the right diamond—one that makes you fall in love with it when you look at it. Buy one from a well-known brand or your family jeweller; someone who will always be around to service your ring.”
    Engagement rings come in a variety of options, catering to all types of preferences.
“To start with, it is important to collectively consider a few options before choosing the right ring. Your budget is important, along with how much time you have to customise your ring. Designs can be made or altered depending on it. You can have a design or words carved to give your ring that special touch. Some people use precious stones, which are carried as heirlooms within the family and further passed on with modern designs,” says Gautam Ghanasingh, creative director at Ghanasingh.
    While you select a ring, there are a few factors to keep in mind. The four Cs—cut, colour, clarity and carat weight, directly determine the price of your ring. However, Rupak Sen, regional director-marketing at Gemfields stretches the four Cs to seven Cs. He says, “In fact there are seven Cs, which are colour, clarity, cut, carat, credibility, certification and character. While choosing gemstones, buy them from a responsible source. In terms of certification, a report from a licensed gemological laboratory can confirm the characteristics and qualities of your gemstone, including not only its colour, clarity, weight and dimensions, but also its origin (when known) and any artificial treatments to which it might have been subjected.” Ali echoes this sentiment as she explains, “Always buy a certified stone from a well known grading laboratory. The most prominent labs are GIA, HRD and IGL. If price is an issue, buy a stone that is smaller in size, yet of good quality.” 

Trends
• When Prince William popped the question to the Duchess of Cambridge, with the now-famous blue sapphire ring, a trend was born. Halle Berry’s emerald ring set in gold given by beau Olivier Martinez had the same effect. And naturally, coloured diamonds and gemstones is a popular trend in the engagement ring section.
    “While white solitaire diamonds are still a preferred choice for engagement rings, intense and vivid diamonds in yellow are also in demand. And then there are those
who want something a little special and look at fine Colombian emeralds, tanzanites and rubies as well,” says Biren Vaidya, managing director at Rose Group of Companies.
    Fashion stylist, Allia Al Rufai who works for films and celebrities predicts the latest trends in ring styles: “For some women, it is all about evoking relaxed elegance, but for others it could be a statement piece. Vintage
    designs have been reinterpreted in a new way; you see Art Deco influences and lavish detailing with finer cuts. Today, the engagement ring is no longer about the size of the solitaire!” 

Common mistakes
• While it is easy to get very involved in the look and authenticity of the ring, some people often make common mistakes while buying an engagement ring. “It should not be considered an investment! More like a symbol of a lifelong promise of love. Focus on personal taste and see if it matches your existing jewellery. This is a good indicator to help decide if the ring fits in with your lifestyle. An engagement ring should not be based on the flavour of the moment. Instead, it should be a symbol of enduring commitment and affection!” says Arunima Bhaumik, head of design at Ganjam.
    As much as the size of your solitaire
matters, experts advise against compromising on quality. “The general mistake is enforcing your choice on your partner rather than finding out her taste and also investing in a poor quality diamond just because it’s bigger in size,” says Sen.
    Similarly, looking at the practical aspect of the ring is a wise idea too. “People sometimes lose out on the important perspective of quality—just so that they get a bigger looking stone. Over time, these low quality products lose colour and form and with poor finishing, we see precious stones falling out. Strongly treated metal also stains the finger over time and loses its shine,” informs Ghanasingh.
    Ali considers the aesthetic value of the ring while placed on your finger. She explains, “Long fingers can carry emeraldcut diamonds very well, whereas round looks better on shorter fingers.”
    With plenty of options in styles and cuts available today, it is up to you to woo your better half with not just the right ring, but also the effort you put forth in finding it.

What should you consider before purchasing a diamond?

KNOW YOUR BEST FRIEND!

A GLIMPSE OF ITS SHEER MAGNIFICENCE IS ENOUGH TO CHARM ANYONE INTO SUBMISSION. AS SUCH, THERE IS AN IMPERATIVE NEED TO UNDERSTAND THE ASPECTS THAT BEQUEATH THE STONE ITS PRECIOUS VALUE. INDUSTRY EXPERTS ANSWER SOME OF THE COMMON QUERIES

Q. What should you consider before purchasing a diamond?  
Ask yourself, ‘What is the purpose for which I need the diamond?’ Is it for daily wear, an investment, engagement, etc? “The customer has to understand whether he/she wants to buy for investment purposes in which case the quality, colour and cut play an important role, or to use it as jewellery, wherein the size becomes important,” says Sunil Datwani, director, Gehna Jewellers. Eventually, move on to other important aspects like budget. Ashwin Shah, head, retail sales and operations, Ciemme Jewels advises customers to research well on diamonds and understand how variations in the four Cs (cut, colour, carat and clarity) can alter the diamond prices. “The sum of these four
Cs affects the fifth most important factor—price.” After that you need to understand what size, colour and quality will fit in that price range. Bhavin Rupani, President, Jasani - The Jewellery Lounge opines, “If you want a bigger diamond, then you can compromise a little on the quality, colour and cut. If you’re looking for both, good quality and colour, then a smaller size is recommended.” Also, a first-time buyer should always go to a reputed jeweller and be aware of all jewellery certifications. 

Q. Which is the most important of the four Cs? 
 “Although a change in any of the Cs alters the price of a diamond, the key is to choose a well-cut piece as it enhances the stone’s ability to reflect light and maximise its fire and brilliance,” opines jewellery designer Renu Oberoi, Mahesh Notandass. “Colourless diamonds are the most desirable since they allow maximum refraction of light. The quality of your diamond depends on how many natural flaws it has and how prominent they are. The more there are, the less expensive the diamond will be. Look for diamonds that fall just under popular carat weights such as 1/2- carat, 3/4-carat, 1-carat, etc. Since these diamonds fall just shy of the popular weight, they are often sold at a slight discount compared to diamonds of full weight,” she says. 

Q. What is the best way to spot flaws in a diamond?  
The flaws in a diamond are rarely visible to
the naked eye unless it is on the outer surface of the diamond like a scratch or chip. In order to see the internal flaws, you need a microscope. The best way for a customer to spot a fake from a real diamond is to see the quality certificate or get the diamond valued from a trusted source. Oberoi advises, “The best way to spot a flaw in a diamond is to place it in bright light; if the diamond only gives off a little sparkle and shine, it most likely is not real. Also, a real diamond cannot be scratched. Remember the saying, ‘A real diamond can scratch glass.’ It’s true. If your stone has any surface scratches, it’s not an original.” 

Q. Are diamonds good investment options?  
Diamonds have an emotional value attached to them and people don’t usually purchase diamonds with an intention of selling it. Thanks to this limited re-sale, the prices remain high. Also, diamonds have become a universal commodity and they can be bought and sold all over the world. However, the customer needs to be aware that it might be difficult to sell in times of urgent need, as finding the right buyer may take some time. On the other hand, Devyani Khosla, sales director – Damiani India, states that since diamonds are the hardest substance known to exist, not much can tarnish them. “If you have the perfect cut, clarity and colour, the value of the diamond will appreciate with passing years, or you will get exactly what you paid, taking into account the appreciation as well. Though you should have thorough knowledge and do proper research on the current market scenario before purchasing diamonds for investment.”

Ttraditional hese earrings Hyderabad

Ttraditional hese earrings Hyderabad are inspired style. They’re called chipka and are similar to the passa design, usually worn by brides. Crafted out of 18-carat gold, they feature diamonds, emeralds and pearls. While I usually make fun, contemporary jewellery, I think there’s nothing quite like traditional jewellery. I love such old-fashioned designs and styles like the chaandbali. I’m sure they will be passed to the next generation. Even the new collection that I’m working on has been inspired by a vintage sensibility. My aim is to make vintage jewellery for tomorrow—jewellery that’s also versatile and can be worn with traditional outfits as well as formal [western] gowns. 

THESE ARE A FEW OF MY FAVOURITE THINGS…

THEY’VE DAZZLED US WITH THEIR MANY CREATIONS, BUT THERE’S ALWAYS THAT SPECIAL ONE THAT DESIGNERS HOLD CLOSE TO THEM. WE SPEAK TO THEM ABOUT WHAT MAKES THESE PIECES THEIR MOST BELOVED BAUBLES

Tand his is rose a ruby -cut bracelet diamonds with . It’s full-cut something that can be worn with Indian and western outfits, as it has a few Mughal motifs but overall, bears a western look. This is a complete statement piece. The stones used in this were rubies from Burma (which were unheated) along with rose-cut and full-cut diamonds set in 18-carat white gold.

Mset y personal of concave favourite -convex jewellery diamond piece bangles is this from the VOW (Very Own Wish) collection. The modern woman is evolved to make informed choices. She would like to possess or invest in a jewellery piece that is versatile and has multiwear options. The concave-convex bangle does exactly that; this piece of jewellery comes with another bangle, which can be attached or removed to give it a new look, altogether. I find this absolutely unique, as it’s a classic piece with a twist—it can be transformed to complement both, casual daywear and eveningwear outfits. The design is timeless and I would love to pass it on to my daughter.

 Often jewellery , when piece it comes , many to designers a stick to one style. I like to play with different elements and fuse techniques, even if it’s a single piece. You don’t need to be restricted to one style like polki, uncut, gold or diamond. This is a polki ring, which also features diamonds in a filigree setting. It’s actually a Rajwada design. I personally love big rings—I think big earrings and a big ring are just what you need to make a statement. Clients appreciate designs like this ring as it’s an amalgamation of various materials and designs. And I love it, because I believe that it suits every hand.

A diamond is forever

One of the most sought-after gemstones in the world, a diamond is irresistible for many reasons. Besides the visible brilliance, a quality diamond also lends itself well to investment. We speak to industry experts to find out what you need to know when you buy this precious stone

‘A diamond is forever’—a slogan from a popular advertising campaign perhaps best encapsulates the fascination that this stone holds for everyone. Endowed with unique characteristics, diamonds have the power to make the wearer look and feel truly priceless! 

 

Quality check So, what is it about diamonds that renders most people speechless? Maybe it is to do with the fact that they are precious and rare. Or perhaps, it is their innate quality to radiate with fiery brilliance. According to experts, it is a combination of these qualities that make a diamond desirable and compels you to possess one.
    Bhavin Rupani, president and spokesperson for Jasani - The Jewellery Lounge, mentions that one of the first things most people learn about diamonds is that not all diamonds are created equal. In fact, every diamond is unique. They come in many sizes, shapes, colours, and with various internal characteristics, which affect their price. “Jewellery professionals use a systematic way to evaluate and discuss these factors. They are called the Five Cs: cut, colour, clarity, carat and certification. In reference to colour, diamonds range from colourless to light yellow and brown, with colourless diamonds being the rarest and the most valuable. The colours are referred to the D-Z scale with D coloured diamonds commanding the highest price. There are also rare pink, yellow and blue colours, which are popular. Regarding clarity, diamonds have internal features called inclusions, and surface
irregularities called blemishes. Together, these are called clarity characteristics. Clarity is the relative absence of inclusions and blemishes. Accordingly, diamonds are graded as IF (Internally Flawless) to SI (Slighly Included). Commercially, VVS (Very Very Slightly Included) and VS (Very Slightly Included) grades are popular,” explains Rupani.
    While the terms and their explanations are intriguing, there is much more to it. Rupani states, “The cut stands for the skillful way in which a diamond has been cut so as to give the best shine and brilliance. It can also refer to the different shapes like marquise, princess, pear, oval, heart, asscher, cushion and emerald. Carat stands for the unit of weight of the diamond; 100 cents make up a carat.”
    Nowadays, a lot of attention is given to certification, which is a recent addition to the vital C factors of diamonds. The jewellery grading institutes grade diamonds on the basis of the aforementioned factors. This benefits the consumer by serving as a guarantee of what he has paid for. It is much like a third-party assurance between the seller and the customer.
    World over, the diamond business depends on the mining of rough diamonds. “South Africa is a major centre for rough diamonds because of the mines located there. It is indeed a hub for procuring rough diamonds and several manufacturers have their
factories located here. Belgium is also a large centre. Here, we have rough diamond producers and dealers, manufacturers and polished diamond wholesalers,” explains Sahil Shah, partner at Mumbai-based Diamines Gems. Thus, from the time it is mined, procured, traded, and then ultimately set into the design, a diamond has travelled across continents! 

On the Indian front While the allure of the stone remains unchanged and people covet it as much now as they did in the past, there is definitely a change in preferences when it comes to design or types of diamonds. According to Ishu Datwani, founder of Anmol Jewellers, “Round brilliant-cut diamonds are the most conventional, though now people have become more experimental [in terms of preferences]. They prefer fancy-cut diamonds like princess, marquise and pear combined with round brilliantcuts. Even a combination of yellow and white diamonds has picked up in a big way, internationally.”
    “Round white diamonds were used in traditional jewellery as they have resale value. However, fancy shapes are in demand by women who want something other than round-shaped diamonds. The use of coloured diamonds like pink and yellow has also picked up recently. Rose-cut and polki diamonds are becoming popular. Fancy shapes and colours combine to create a great piece of jewellery for contemporary women,” adds Rupani.
    Jewellery designer Vidhi Turakhia-Shah observes that women are veering towards classy designs with timeless quality. She also states that people want elaborate designs with an interesting mix of precious stones and diamonds.
    Given the current economic scenario, we wonder, will there be any changes in the demand for diamond jewellery? “Diamonds have always featured as a part of Indian tradition and this will never change. People may prefer a mix of costume jewellery and real diamonds while assembling trousseaus and jewellery collections, but there will always be a demand for bespoke diamonds,” concludes Turakhia-Shah. As they say, diamonds are indeed forever! 
 
    FYI

• The word ‘diamond’ comes from the Greek word adámas, meaning ‘unbreakable’
• To produce a single onecarat diamond, 250 tonnes of earth is mined
• Most diamonds found in nature are between one to three billion years old
• About 80 per cent of the world’s diamonds are not suitable for jewellery

Indian weddings get high on the fun quotient this season

THE FUN INDIAN WEDDING

Stand-up comedians at mehendi, the bride riding a horse, stunning aerial performers and fire dancers ushering in the baraat, Buckingham Palace and Vegas-themed sets – Indian weddings get high on the fun quotient this season.

    Gone are the days when the bride and groom would watch guests having fun as they settled their heavy wedding ensembles and worried about the khatirdari, menus, make-up and jewellery. Weddings, these days, are not just big and fat. They are fun and trippy, where the bride and groom are equal participants. In fact, they are the centrestage of merrymaking and lead from the front – matching steps with belly dancers, doing cabaret, riding horses, acting in skits, quizzing each other about the times when they’d met, dated... For trendy youngsters, a great wedding is an unforgettable experience they are part of. Here’s what else is new this wedding season... 

London, New York in India: The big theme this season is creating cities at wedding venues. Says wedding planner Sonali Thakore, “We’re creating London in Jaipur for a wedding this year. We have symbolic guards that you see around Buckingham Palace. The food court will have European-style restaurants and the cuisine will be British. We also did a New York wedding, where we recreated Times Square!”

Inspired by Hollywood: From Avatar to The Great Gatsby, Hollywood is inspiring events at Indian weddings. Says wedding planner Vandana Mohan, “We did an Avatar-inspired sangeet. We created a forest and a wishing tree. The Great Gatsby-theme parties have been a huge hit, with guests wearing clothes inspired from the 1920s. The non-movie themes that are popular are: fairytale, enchanted forest, Alice in Wonderland, nautanki and Raas Leela.” 

Authentic temple food to Greek fare: “This season is about pizza from Napoli, authentic food from Maharashtra, Rampur and Patiala,” says Mohan. There’s a rise in concept foods – like North West Frontier foods, with a variety of kebabs like Peshawari murg, Sikandari raan, Dakhani murgh. “A lot of people serve temple foods of India, which comprises puri- aloo from Benaras, appam and stew from South Indian temples. We are even flying in Nobu and Michelin-star chefs at grand weddings,” adds Thakore. 

The evolution of the invitation card: Says Kapil Khurana, owner of a design company, specialising in wedding cards and gifts, “For destination weddings, we design cards in the shape of trunks to get guests in the mood for travel. There’s an itinerary, a list of dos and don’ts and gifts – tea, healing herbs and spices.” 

The baraat procession:The baraat is getting bigger and fancier. The groom’s family apart, the bride’s side gets celebrity singers to usher in the groom. Says wedding planner Gita Samuel, “The groom’s entry is planned with a lot of fanfare and drama. People with deep pockets are getting singers like Akon or fire dancers and aerial performers from abroad. Stand-up comedians are becoming a hit with the guests at wedding functions too. Adds Samuel, “We are inviting singers, dancers, DJs and bands from the international market this season.” 

Trendy tablescapes: Wedding tables have lush, sophisticated displays. Says Samuel, “We are using flower-garden themed centrepieces, candelabras with ornate dinnerware, delicate linen and more finery.” 

Create your wedding website: If a couple is tech-savvy, wedding management software, helps them plan and talk about their wedding online. Bharat Kanodia, who sells software to create personalised
    wedding websites says, “Most couples     have their wedding websites describing how they met, introducing their     families, talking about their wedding functions, and inviting interactions from guests. It’s a fun way     of doing things.”





     

WHAT’S NEW THIS SEASON? 

Hot wedding set decor: Vienna, Greece, Morocco and Turkey. 

Hot food trends: Pizza from Napoli, authentic food from Maharashtra, Rampur, Patiala, food from the temples of India. Brazilian, Spanish, Greek cuisine are in demand too. If it is Oriental, it has to be Schezwan, Cantonese, Fujian or Hunan dishes.  

Hot destinations: Macau, Mauritius.  

Hot tech trend: Brides are blogging. From experiences to emotions, beauty, fashion tips to practical posts, brides are getting serious about blogging. These blogs are visual, fun to read and have tips for would-be brides.

FROM LEFT: Ayesha Dalvi is a happy bride; Deepti Jakhar and her would-be hubby, Rohit Verma, display their moves on the dance floor; Anjhula Singh Bais enjoys the sangeet night with fiancé Satish Selvanathan; Amrita and Sharik Currimbhoy are lost in the moment