My favourite piece of jewellery is an antique choker-set that my father bought me at an auction at Hyderabad. It is priceless in its setting, stones and sentiment not just because it was given to me by my beloved parent but also because it is not garish. The peacocks set in emeralds and rubies on it are stunning.
The piece of jewellery that I have owned for the longest duration is an emerald necklace set in diamonds. It was gifted by my grandfather to my grandmother when he produced his first Hindi film. I inherited this classic beauty (which he called ‘Venus’ after Madhubala who starred in the film) and wear it with gowns, because it symbolises longevity in family relationships for me.
I am most fond of the traditional and fusion polki and kundan jewellery that I have inherited from my family. I also like contemporary settings and chic edgy pieces with floral or animal designs that I can wear with business suits or evening gowns, the latter which I absolutely adore.
I also love rubies, yellow African diamonds, rare precious stones in dramatic colours set with some diamonds rather than the prosaic solitaires that people seem to be flaunting nowadays.
My philosophy about jewellery is that it should whisper not shout, it should be about beauty and not about a vulgar display of wealth. It must be about nonchalance and should be worn keeping in mind the outfit. I’d never recommend sporting jewellery sets, as this is passé, instead I’d go with one dramatic focal point that speaks out and then I’d understate all else. For example if your choker is flamboyant, let the ring, arm cuff and earrings be subtle.
My jewellery dream is to have an edgy sculptural necklace made by a funky sculptor like Jahangir Jani or Arzan Khambatta. I am attracted to the offbeat and innovative.

I meet up with jeweller Sudhirr Singh in his cosy showroom ‘Adaaliz’ on Hughes Road, which also houses the office spaces of some of the most affluent jewellers in town. I step up to a brightly lit space which showcases a veritable gamut of every woman’s dream – diamond necklaces, rubies, emeralds and precious stones galore. Walking upto his office upstairs, I meet a man who seems extremely serious about the jewellery that he serves up customers.
Sudhirr and his family, who hail from Bhagalpur in Bihar, have been in the jewellery business for nearly two-and-a-half decades, he says. Sudhirr, who started out by exporting loose diamonds to the Far East, has two brothers, both of whom are also in the same field – in Bangkok and in Bangalore respectively. He started ‘Adaaliz’ on his own two-and-a-half years ago after being in partnership with his brothers for about two decades. “There’s more freedom and creativity when one has the licence to take one’s own decisions,” he says. “The demand for jewellery in India is growing by the day.” So moving from Panchratna, Opera House, he shifted to being his own man on Hughes Road.
Sudhirr’s showroom specialises in bridal jewellery of a fine sort in keeping with the word Adaaliz which is a European name for ‘of the nobility’. “Diamond studded jewellery is a favourite with my customers, many of whom are female,” he says adding that making lightweight jewellery with fine diamonds is ‘Adaaliz’s specialty. For Sudhirr, helping conceptualise the jewellery he sells is the most exciting part despite the fact that he has in-house designers at work. “People want unique sorts of jewellery nowadays and tastes among customers differ widely.”
For a workaholic like him who works till 9 pm each day, keeping a work-life balance is confessedly difficult. But he does treasure the times he spends with his family over the weekends. Something that he most looks forward to every year is travelling to Hong Kong for the annual jewellery fair that never fails to inspire him.
Sudhirr’s success mantra is simple: “Work hard, be creative and provide satisfaction to customers”. And last but not the least, he believes in being positive. For someone like him who forms part of the large USD 30 billion jewellery business in India annually, one which exports 95% of the world’s diamonds, the future looks bright.

As the party season gets in full swing, there’s no better time to update your wardrobe. Along with stocking up on the latest trends in dresses, you’re also going to need some stylish statement pieces to complete your look. Ayesha Kapur, from Ayesha accessories, says for the disco queen look, metal mesh earrings and neckpieces in all colours ranging from silver and gold to pink, blue and black glitter are in vogue. “Neon is another super craze. Earrings and neckpieces in electric green or orange are sure to grab attention. Chunky necklaces are also great, but multiple long chains in metal seem to be the hot thing this season,” she says.
Jewellery designer Vasundhara Mantri feels flowers are a real hit this season, and feature in her necklaces, rings and bracelets. “Chandelier earrings add a beautiful, feminine touch. Even layered earrings are very trendy this season, and can be bought in both precious and cosmetic metals. Pair a chunky statement neckpiece in muti-coloured gemstones, silver and gold rhinestones, and black beads with your solid-coloured dress. Further, square, triangle, cubic, and round bracelets bring some arm candy to your look,” adds the designer.
When it comes to bags, clutches with chains still rule. Accessory Designer Pinky Saraf says deep hues like indigo, emerald, royal blue are popular favourites. “When dressing for a party, go with gold sequins or metallic pieces to add a touch of bling. Personally, I incorporate kundan, diamantes and polkis in my pieces as it gives a quirky mix of traditional and modern,” she adds.
Footwear designer Rohan Arora says since the party season means lots of dancing, opt for something comfortable for your feet, preferably flats. “If you can’t go for flats, I’d recommend platform heels. But stilettos are a complete no-no. Boots are also popular this season but opt for ones in lighter fabrics like khadi or kalamkari work. Hand-embroidered jootis look fab even when teamed with Western silhouettes. Go for footwear in deep colours like wine red and ink blue and go all out with bling by pairing crystal-studded sandals with your outfit,” he says.

According to legend Kublai Khan once offered to part with a city in exchange for a ruby in the King of Ceylon’s possession. Gustavus III of Sweden presented one, now in the Russian regalia, to the Empress Catherine, which was apparently the size of a pigeon’s egg. And the Burmese government sent two rubies to London in 1879, one of which, reduced by re-cutting to just over 32 carats, was sold for 10,000 pounds of those days; the other, of about 38.5 carats, was sold for 20,000 pounds.
This deep red stone speaks, to most, of the language of passion. Says jewellery designer Queenie Singh, “It is not just the stone of passion but the stone of attraction as well.” One of the four precious stones in the world – the other three being diamonds, emeralds and sapphires – rubies hold properties that according to astrologers and gemologists can assuage doubt and relieve anxieties. Their courage and passion for life deliver energies that can help one to enjoy life’s upside and confront conflicts in any form as well. With rubies, says popular perception, courage is achieved and they inspire one to keep going.
Designer Farah Khan Ali, who informs that she will be featuring rubies in her next jewellery collection, says that they are a stone that can be worn at any time of day. “They are basically a feminine stone and can be worn either casually during the daytime, or formally at night. Sometimes on an evening out, soft lighting can accentuate their appeal enormously.”
Designer Varuna D Jani says that while she loves both rubies and emeralds, rubies are the more popular stone among her clients. “Rubies can be worn by young and old alike – even 18-year-olds can wear them – unlike emeralds which do not suit everybody,” she affirms. Varuna adds that she sells Burmese rubies at her showroom which are the best in the world but which are also relatively rare now.
Generally speaking, naturally occurring rubies are considered the most valuable, though nowadays many rubies are synthetically treated with colour inclusions that makes their colour richer and more vibrant. “The most superior rubies in the marketplace are the ones with the least colour inclusions,” says Varuna. On the other hand, as Queenie rightly adds, colour inclusions often increase a ruby’s buying appeal especially among those looking for more intense and vivid colours.
According to the Gregorian calendar, the ruby is generally considered the birthstone of the month of July, while the Hindu calendar considers it as the birthstone of the month of August. In fact, a verse dating to 1870 describes it in an amusing form:
“The glowing ruby shall adorn, Those who in July are born; Then they’ll be exempt and free
From love’s doubts and anxiety.”
Rubies are generally worn, astrologically speaking to enhance the power of the Sun in the birth chart. However, it has to be kept in mind that, when viewed from this astrological dimension, the paramount consideration is the time of birth and the consequent ascendant house of the individual concerned.